|This is an old picture framing trick to get the gales to match up perfectly.|
The manual calls them cockpit shear strips. The strip continues past the cockpit all the way to the bow where they bend together and meet. To get the angle right where they meet I used a picture frame trick. Get them close and saw where the two strip meet. The kerf of the saw takes out just the right amount of both pieces to leave a perfect fit.
The strips need to be installed proud of the plywood sides. This is especially critical in the cabin portion of the strip. After the epoxy cures there will be enough wood to create the bevel to match the angle of the cabin roof, otherwise there will be an unsightly gap between the roof and strip. I continued the bevel all the way to the point of the bow making the angle flatter the farther forward until they met at the bow. I did this because there are mooring guides that mount on top of these strips and if the strips had too much angle the guides would not work properly. I also didn't want these strips flat because the angle has a lovely look of elegance.
|Checking the bevel to match on both sides.|
|The anchor well has become a great tool tray.|
|Dry fit of the upper breasthook.|
|View of the shear strip in the cabin area left proud of the plywood sides. I thought the curly cut looked cool too.|
|Installed stringers for the seatbacks. The hole is for a speaker.|
The Pocketship manual is great but it really understates the difficulty of the making of the cabin cleats. What you have is a strip of wood that has two compound angles on the ends and oh yeah, it has to be perfect in length too. On bulkhead two (the front of the cabin) there is a rolling bevel that needs to be cut on the top of the curved cleat. This is really not too bad because it can be done after the cleat is epoxied in place. The underside is square to the bulkhead. The cleats on the aft cabin wall (bulkhead 3) are not so lucky. There is another rolling bevel that must be cut on the underside.
In picture below you can see my method of cutting these strips. I found it fairly easy to make one end fit with one compound angle so I would cut one and then the other without any worry about length. I then clamped the two pieces in place and screwed a "splint" to hold them together in exactly the orientation and length. Then I used the result for a pattern. It was a method I came up with myself and there are probably some trim carpenters who daily install crown molding laughing at me right now, but it worked for me.
|Two strips with their compound cuts clamped in place.|
|Two strips with their "splint" creating a perfect pattern for cutting the real one.|
|Tight fit! Bevel work on top will be done after the epoxy cures.|
|This is the rolling bevel on the underside of the rear cleat.|
|Closer look at the bevel angle.|
|This Lie-Neilson spoke shave is the greatest tool ever. The marks show where I have been on top and where I am going on the end.|
|After many dry fits it was time to butter up with epoxy and put on the squeeze.|